EYES IN™ Magazine Editor-in-Chief Vivian Van Dijk covered live at the presentation of Bvlgari's new collection of luxury purses at Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. The event was packed with fans from around the world as these brilliant purses stole the show at Haute Couture.
The shape and materials used in the silver artifacts created by Sotirio Georgis Bulgari during the last quarter of the 19th century were in a “Neo-Hellenic” Style, greatly sought after by English tourists visiting Rome. It combined elements of the Byzantine and Islamic traditions and featured allegorical, floral and foliate motifs. As until 1950s Paris was the center for fashion and creative jewellery, Sotirio’s production would be influenced by French style for many years. With their geometric design or stylised naturalistic motifs, the Bulgari jewels of the early ‘20s were therefore inspired by Art Deco style and characterized by platinum mounts. The jewels of the ‘30s are distinctive for their more imposing dimensions and marked geometric motifs in diamonds of different cuts or diamonds combined with a colored gemstone, such as a sapphire or ruby. Convertible jewels were also fashionable at that time and necklaces could be divided, making it possible to wear the different components separately as bracelets, clips, or brooches.
These years also saw the creation of one of Bulgari’s greatest and long-standing successes: the Trombino ring. The name derives from its shape, reminiscent of a small trumpet. Giorgio Bulgari gave one of the first examples to his future wife, Leonilde. During the ‘40s, a radical change took place in the jewellery creation. It was no longer produced in diamond-encrusted platinum, but in gold with sparing use of precious gemstones. These factors were primarily determined by the restrictions caused by the Second World War. Rigid geometric designs became softer and more naturalistic. At the end of 1940s Bulgari also introduced snake-shaped bracelet-watches. The first exemplars of this motif, then became one of the most celebrated Brand icons, Serpenti, were highly stylized with coils realized either in tubogas or in gold mesh that wrapped around the wrist. This watch was subsequently made in increasingly varied versions exploring every possible shape of case and dial. The case was positioned at the end or at the center of the bracelet. The new millennium has seen a radical change in Bulgari design. The brand’s distinctive creations, which from the beginning of the 1980s had been distinguished by their volume and rounded shapes and realized mainly in yellow gold, became more two-dimensional toward the end of the 1990s. The new style saw a return to white gold and platinum, in delicate and flexible open-work motifs, further reflecting contemporary design’s tendency to favor the use of chrome-colored metals. The first collection showing these new characteristics was the linear and two-dimensional Lucea series dating to 2001.
Every item was made up of tiny square and circular (often gem-studded) elements joined together to form a highly flexible, articulated, precious “textile” of sorts. In its flexible creations of the twenty-first century, Bulgari has nevertheless remained faithful to the traditional materials and techniques that are the hallmarks of its style: an original use of cabochon gemstones, yellow gold, an understated wearability for rare and precious stones, a predilection for sapphires and, last but not least, joyful colors achieved through the uninhibited use of both transparent and opaque gems of every imaginable kind.
For more innovative fashion, follow @EYESINMagazine.
Images Courtesy of Vivian Van Dijk