13th – 16th April 2011 Selection of the Jury and Piolets d’Or Lifetime Contribution Award
This April, the 19th Piolets d’Or will bring together alpinists, climbers and mountain enthusiasts from across the globe
for the annual celebration of alpinism, taking place for the third time at the foot of Mont Blanc.
2010 was a year marked by the exploration of many largely unexplored ranges with numerous first ascents
completed by alpinists from the world over - with 53 major ascents undertaken in twenty different countries from
Antarctica to Greenland, and from Alaska to the highest summits in Asia.
The Piolets d’Or recognises the efforts and achievements of mountaineers who uphold the ethics and values of the
Piolets d’Or charter. The Jury will study the years ascents in detail and will nominate a maximum of six routes. They
will then choose those to be given the recognition of the Piolet d’Or during the event from 13th-16th April.
JURY FOR THE 2011 EVENT:
The Jury will be presided over by Greg Child, and comprises four alpinists and two journalists.
Born in Australia, Greg Child has lived in America for many years. He made a name for himself in the 1980s with his
stunning exploits on El Capitan and put up routes on several big walls such as Aurora and Lost in America, with Peter
Mayfield & Randy Leavitt. He participated in notable firsts of the East Ridge of Shivling (1981 with Doug Scott), the
North West Ridge of Gasherbrum IV (1986), the North Ridge of K2 (1990), and Wall of Shadows on the North Buttress
of Mount Hunter (1994 with Michael Kennedy). His books (Mixed Emotions and Postcards from the Ledge) recount his
travels and ascents, exhibiting his talent as a writer and his commitment to his climbs,.
Simon Anthamatten personifies 21st century alpinism. After competing in climbing competitions from an early age,
he gained widespread recognition for his rapid and technical ascent of the North Face of Tengkangpoche in 2008 with
Ueli Steck, for which they received a Piolet d’Or in 2009. A high altitude rescue on the East Ridge of Annapurna, also in
2009, gained him the recognition of his peers. He opened a superb new line on Jasemba, a 7350m peak near Cho Oyu,
in the same year with his brother Samuel and fellow Zermatt-ite Michel Lerjen. In the autumn of 2010, the Anthamatten
brothers paid a visit to El Capitan and summited ‘Big Stone’ 10 times by nine different routes! In addition to his
achievements in alpinism, he is known for his humour, frankness and quiet modesty.
Yannick Graziani is the holder of an impressive list of Himalayan successes: the South East Ridge & the East Face of
Makalu, Chomo Lonzo, Annapurna, Chaukhamba II and Pumari Chhishh. An integral member of the TGW (Trommsdorff-
Graziani-Wagnon) climbing team, he takes on the high commitment and risk of alpine style climbing. The daring and
appealing nature of his recent attempt on the South Face of Annapurna in alpine style with Stéphane Benoist was hugely
admired by his fellow climbers. One of the latest generation of accomplished alpinists, he has many more ascents up his
sleeve.
Enrico Rosso is a discreet alpinist. With unquestionable ethics, he attempted technical ascents in alpine style at a time
when the style was little known. His choices are as pleasing as they are difficult - little known ascents of the North East
Face of Shivling in 1986, and the South West Ridge of Latok III (7143m) in 1988, are among the most notable in the
history of alpinism. In 1989, he reached the summit of Diamond Pillar at over 6900m on the South Face of Nuptse in
perfect style. Enrico has climbed in Peru and Patagonia, he climbed a difficult route on the East Face of the Grandes
Jorasses and a variation on the North East Spur of Thalay Sagar, as well as attempting the North Face of K2.
Hiroshi Hagiwara learned to climb at Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club. After graduating from university, he took
a job at Yama-Kei Publishers. Established in 1930, it is the oldest mountaineering publishing company in Japan. Hiroshi
has been Editor in Chief of Rock & Snow climbing magazine since 2001, and was editor in chief of Yama to Keikoku, the
popular mountaineering magazine for five years. He has been a member of the jury for the Piolets d’Or Asia three times
(2008, 2009 and 2010) in Seoul, Korea. He is the president of Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club graduates
association and director of the Japanese Alpine Club.
Michael Pause began working for the Bavarian Broadcasting Company producing films for the mountaineering show
Bergauf-Bergab in 1978. He has edited and directed well over 150 films for the show. He has become an expert in the
variety of mountaineering possibilities to be found in the Alps, working as Senior Editor for Berge magazine in addition
to his work in television. He is artistic director of the International Mountain Film Festival of Tegernsee and has travelled
extensively in the mountain regions of the world - from the Alps to Nepal & Tibet, East Africa and North America.
2011 PIOLET D’OR LIFETIME CONTRIBUTION AWARD
After the recognition of the outstanding contribution to alpinism of Walter Bonatti (2009) and Reinhold Messner (2010),
the 2011 Piolets d’Or will be presented to Doug Scott.
Climber and explorer, the first Englishman to climb Everest in 1975 with a remarkable first ascent of the South West
Face, Doug Scott was one of the pioneers of alpine style climbing in the Greater Ranges - reaching the summit of the
world’s highest peaks with small groups of friends carrying everything needed in a rucksack. Author of 45 expeditions to
the highest mountains in the world, he has reached the summit of 40 peaks - from the Hindu Kush to Baffin Island, and
has climbed numerous routes across the Alps and in Yosemite. Doug Scott embodies the spirit of modern alpinism in its
quest for innovative routes.
After his 1975 ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston, the pair opened a 2800m route on Denali the following year. In
1977 Scott and Bonington climbed the infamous Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7285m, with Doug having to descend on all fours
after breaking both ankles. The ascent of Kangchenjunga 8585m with Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman & Georges Bettembourg
in 1979, was an incredible feat and set new standards by climbing to such high altitude without the use of oxygen
on a new route, and for being carried out in semi alpine-style. Expeditions to Kusum Kanguru and then the North Face
of Nuptse with Alan Rouse, Brian Hall & Georges Bettembourg were completed in the same year. In 1982 Shishapangma
was the chosen peak, with a new route in alpine style with Alex McIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones. With several
expeditions to K2, and to Makalu, Doug has always pushed alpine style climbing to the limits of possibility. The route put
up by Doug, Rick White, Georges Bettembourg & Greg Child on Shivling in 1981 is still recognised as one of the most
accomplished and audacious in the world. It is legendary for its difficulty, beauty, and for the style it was climbed in.
Doug has been working with communities in Nepal since 1989, setting up his charity Community Action Nepal patroned
by Chris Bonington. The charity carries out various projects supporting health, education and local economy in Nepal.
Doug Scott has received various honours including a CBE (Commander of the British Empire) and the Gold Medal of the
Royal Geographical Society.
Join us in Chamonix and Courmayeur for this unique event in the mountaineering calendar.
Details of nominated ascents will be released in March.
Further information available on www.pioletsdor.org
Contacts
Press Relations
Katie Moore tel: +33 (0)4 50 93 20 77 or +33 (0)6 66 66 23 53 katie@yakmedia.com
Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Claude Marin tel: +33 (0)4 50 54 67 57 or +33 (0)6 23 89 21 89 culture.cm@chamonix.fr
Eyes in Culture - The Alipinists Creators - 19th Piolets d’Or - Chamonix & Courmayeur
13th – 16th April 2011 Selection of the Jury and Piolets d’Or Lifetime Contribution Award
This April, the 19th Piolets d’Or will bring together alpinists, climbers and mountain enthusiasts from across the globe
for the annual celebration of alpinism, taking place for the third time at the foot of Mont Blanc.
2010 was a year marked by the exploration of many largely unexplored ranges with numerous first ascents
completed by alpinists from the world over - with 53 major ascents undertaken in twenty different countries from
Antarctica to Greenland, and from Alaska to the highest summits in Asia.
The Piolets d’Or recognises the efforts and achievements of mountaineers who uphold the ethics and values of the
Piolets d’Or charter. The Jury will study the years ascents in detail and will nominate a maximum of six routes. They
will then choose those to be given the recognition of the Piolet d’Or during the event from 13th-16th April.
JURY FOR THE 2011 EVENT:
The Jury will be presided over by Greg Child, and comprises four alpinists and two journalists.
Born in Australia, Greg Child has lived in America for many years. He made a name for himself in the 1980s with his
stunning exploits on El Capitan and put up routes on several big walls such as Aurora and Lost in America, with Peter
Mayfield & Randy Leavitt. He participated in notable firsts of the East Ridge of Shivling (1981 with Doug Scott), the
North West Ridge of Gasherbrum IV (1986), the North Ridge of K2 (1990), and Wall of Shadows on the North Buttress
of Mount Hunter (1994 with Michael Kennedy). His books (Mixed Emotions and Postcards from the Ledge) recount his
travels and ascents, exhibiting his talent as a writer and his commitment to his climbs,.
Simon Anthamatten personifies 21st century alpinism. After competing in climbing competitions from an early age,
he gained widespread recognition for his rapid and technical ascent of the North Face of Tengkangpoche in 2008 with
Ueli Steck, for which they received a Piolet d’Or in 2009. A high altitude rescue on the East Ridge of Annapurna, also in
2009, gained him the recognition of his peers. He opened a superb new line on Jasemba, a 7350m peak near Cho Oyu,
in the same year with his brother Samuel and fellow Zermatt-ite Michel Lerjen. In the autumn of 2010, the Anthamatten
brothers paid a visit to El Capitan and summited ‘Big Stone’ 10 times by nine different routes! In addition to his
achievements in alpinism, he is known for his humour, frankness and quiet modesty.
Yannick Graziani is the holder of an impressive list of Himalayan successes: the South East Ridge & the East Face of
Makalu, Chomo Lonzo, Annapurna, Chaukhamba II and Pumari Chhishh. An integral member of the TGW (Trommsdorff-
Graziani-Wagnon) climbing team, he takes on the high commitment and risk of alpine style climbing. The daring and
appealing nature of his recent attempt on the South Face of Annapurna in alpine style with Stéphane Benoist was hugely
admired by his fellow climbers. One of the latest generation of accomplished alpinists, he has many more ascents up his
sleeve.
Enrico Rosso is a discreet alpinist. With unquestionable ethics, he attempted technical ascents in alpine style at a time
when the style was little known. His choices are as pleasing as they are difficult - little known ascents of the North East
Face of Shivling in 1986, and the South West Ridge of Latok III (7143m) in 1988, are among the most notable in the
history of alpinism. In 1989, he reached the summit of Diamond Pillar at over 6900m on the South Face of Nuptse in
perfect style. Enrico has climbed in Peru and Patagonia, he climbed a difficult route on the East Face of the Grandes
Jorasses and a variation on the North East Spur of Thalay Sagar, as well as attempting the North Face of K2.
Hiroshi Hagiwara learned to climb at Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club. After graduating from university, he took
a job at Yama-Kei Publishers. Established in 1930, it is the oldest mountaineering publishing company in Japan. Hiroshi
has been Editor in Chief of Rock & Snow climbing magazine since 2001, and was editor in chief of Yama to Keikoku, the
popular mountaineering magazine for five years. He has been a member of the jury for the Piolets d’Or Asia three times
(2008, 2009 and 2010) in Seoul, Korea. He is the president of Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club graduates
association and director of the Japanese Alpine Club.
Michael Pause began working for the Bavarian Broadcasting Company producing films for the mountaineering show
Bergauf-Bergab in 1978. He has edited and directed well over 150 films for the show. He has become an expert in the
variety of mountaineering possibilities to be found in the Alps, working as Senior Editor for Berge magazine in addition
to his work in television. He is artistic director of the International Mountain Film Festival of Tegernsee and has travelled
extensively in the mountain regions of the world - from the Alps to Nepal & Tibet, East Africa and North America.
2011 PIOLET D’OR LIFETIME CONTRIBUTION AWARD
After the recognition of the outstanding contribution to alpinism of Walter Bonatti (2009) and Reinhold Messner (2010),
the 2011 Piolets d’Or will be presented to Doug Scott.
Climber and explorer, the first Englishman to climb Everest in 1975 with a remarkable first ascent of the South West
Face, Doug Scott was one of the pioneers of alpine style climbing in the Greater Ranges - reaching the summit of the
world’s highest peaks with small groups of friends carrying everything needed in a rucksack. Author of 45 expeditions to
the highest mountains in the world, he has reached the summit of 40 peaks - from the Hindu Kush to Baffin Island, and
has climbed numerous routes across the Alps and in Yosemite. Doug Scott embodies the spirit of modern alpinism in its
quest for innovative routes.
After his 1975 ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston, the pair opened a 2800m route on Denali the following year. In
1977 Scott and Bonington climbed the infamous Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7285m, with Doug having to descend on all fours
after breaking both ankles. The ascent of Kangchenjunga 8585m with Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman & Georges Bettembourg
in 1979, was an incredible feat and set new standards by climbing to such high altitude without the use of oxygen
on a new route, and for being carried out in semi alpine-style. Expeditions to Kusum Kanguru and then the North Face
of Nuptse with Alan Rouse, Brian Hall & Georges Bettembourg were completed in the same year. In 1982 Shishapangma
was the chosen peak, with a new route in alpine style with Alex McIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones. With several
expeditions to K2, and to Makalu, Doug has always pushed alpine style climbing to the limits of possibility. The route put
up by Doug, Rick White, Georges Bettembourg & Greg Child on Shivling in 1981 is still recognised as one of the most
accomplished and audacious in the world. It is legendary for its difficulty, beauty, and for the style it was climbed in.
Doug has been working with communities in Nepal since 1989, setting up his charity Community Action Nepal patroned
by Chris Bonington. The charity carries out various projects supporting health, education and local economy in Nepal.
Doug Scott has received various honours including a CBE (Commander of the British Empire) and the Gold Medal of the
Royal Geographical Society.
Join us in Chamonix and Courmayeur for this unique event in the mountaineering calendar.
Details of nominated ascents will be released in March.
Further information available on www.pioletsdor.org
Contacts
Press Relations
Katie Moore tel: +33 (0)4 50 93 20 77 or +33 (0)6 66 66 23 53 katie@yakmedia.com
Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Claude Marin tel: +33 (0)4 50 54 67 57 or +33 (0)6 23 89 21 89 culture.cm@chamonix.fr